There are many things that make a meal great. Food certainly. But, to me, hospitality matters more. A restaurant where you sense the care of a loving proprietor is a different experience entirely.
And Canary by Gorji is a different experience entirely. It’s location is unassuming. It’s interior, while nice enough, lacks the sizzle Dallasites tend to seek. But the experience is flawless.
Having heard good things about it for some time, I took an out-of-town foodie there a few weeks back to have him thoroughly impressed. I returned with a friend just last night and again was blown away by what Gorji manages to execute.
On this occasion, we let Gorji pick the menu – the chef’s three-course prix fixe. It began with a simple but thoroughly interesting salad that included pistachios, veal bacon, lime juice and olive oil.
Our entrée was a combination of buttery soft veal over gnocchi in Gorgonzola cream, alongside Gorji’s butter-seared shrimp. I don’t know his trick, but these shrimp are some of the best you’ll ever enjoy.
My only substitution was dessert. I passed on the ice cream with port wine and Ruby Red grapefruit, having had it and loved it on the last visit; and instead had a chocolate teardrop filled with pomegranate sorbet and pom seeds. It was lick-the-plate delicious.
To finish the meal, Gorji brought us glasses of Portejas, a moniker for port-style wines made in Texas. It was light and bright and a perfect complement to end a perfect meal.
Food aside though, what makes this place great is Gorji (pronounced Gor-gee).
You feel his love of his craft, his pride in his place and the kind of genuine hospitality that seems a lost grace. Originally from Persia, he’s operated in the same location in Addison’s Village on the Parkway for 9 years, 1 month and 11 days (who’s counting?). Ask for him, talk to him – you’ll be richer for it.